What Is Twill Fabric?
Twill is a weave, not a fiber: threads interlace in an offset step that produces the diagonal ribs — called wales — you can see on any pair of chinos or jeans. That diagonal is more than a look. It lets threads pack densely while keeping flexibility, which is why twill fabrics are simultaneously tougher and drapier than plainweaves of the same weight.
Denim, chino, gabardine, drill, herringbone: different names, one family, all twill.
How twill is made
Each weft thread passes over two or more warps, then under one or more, with each row's crossing point stepped sideways — the steps line up into the diagonal. Fewer interlacings per inch than plainweave means threads can crowd closer (density and weight) and shift slightly against each other (drape and wrinkle recovery). The diagonal surface also scatters light and soil, which is why work clothes have been twill for two centuries.
What twill feels like
Substantial, smooth-faced and quietly flexible. Twill hangs heavier than poplin, breaks in rather than wears out, and hides both wrinkles and stains better than flat weaves. Brushed twills add a peachy softness; stretch twills add spandex for fitted pants.
What to sew with twill
- Chinos, work pants and shorts
- Jackets, overshirts and caps
- Skirts and structured dresses in midweights
- Tote bags, aprons and slipcovers in heavy weights
Twill sews cooperatively: it holds a crease, takes topstitching handsomely and rarely shifts. On heavy weights, use a jeans needle and lengthen the stitch; a hump-jumper or folded scrap levels the foot over thick seam crossings.
Twill vs. plainweave, denim and canvas
Plainweave (poplin, quilting cotton) is crisper, lighter-feeling and more prone to wrinkling. Denim is a specific twill — cotton, warp-dyed indigo. Canvas is a heavy plainweave: stiffer and boardier than a twill of equal weight. Herringbone is twill whose diagonal reverses in stripes, gabardine a steep, tight, water-shedding twill.
How to care for twill
Cotton twill machines washes warm and tumbles dry, shrinking a standard 3% or so on first wash — pre-wash yardage. It presses sharply and holds the crease. Blends and synthetics lower the maintenance further.
Twill, measured
Fibers in our twill
- Spandex51%
- Cotton48%
- Polyester48%
- Viscose29%
- Nylon6%
Share of listings containing each fiber — most cloths blend two or more.
Live from 226 measured listings on our shelf. How we measure →
Common questions
Is twill stretchy?
Classic twill is stable; the weave itself gives only a little mechanical give on the bias. Stretch twill blends in spandex for fitted pants — the listing's stretch rating tells you which you are looking at.
What is cotton twill used for?
Pants above all — chinos and workwear — then jackets, caps, bags and slipcovers. Midweight cotton twill is one of the most versatile bottom-weight fabrics you can keep on hand.
What is the difference between twill and denim?
Denim is a twill with a specific recipe: cotton, with only the warp yarns dyed (classically indigo) and the weft left white — the reason jeans are blue outside and pale inside. All denim is twill; most twill is not denim.
