Fleece Fabric 101
Fleece is a knit fabric brushed until its surface raises into a soft, insulating nap — warmth without weight, softness without animal fiber. Nearly all of it is polyester, which is why fleece dries fast, shrugs off odors of the damp-wool kind, and costs less than the wool it imitates.
It is also the most forgiving fabric a beginner can sew: the cut edges do not fray, the nap hides wobbly stitches, and the classic no-sew tie blanket is nothing but fleece and scissors.
How fleece is made
The cloth is knit first, then run through brushing rollers that tease the surface into loft, and often sheared for evenness.
Types of fleece
- Polar fleece — the double-brushed standard most people mean by fleece
- Microfleece — thin and light; base layers and linings
- Anti-pill fleece — finished to resist balling with wear; worth seeking out for garments
- Sweatshirt fleece — loopback knit brushed on the inside only (french terry's cozy sibling)
- Plush and minky fleece — long, silky pile; blankets and baby goods
- Sherpa — deep curly pile imitating shearling
What fleece feels like
Lofty, dry and warm. Fleece insulates by trapping air in the nap, and unlike down or wool it keeps most of its warmth when damp and dries quickly. It breathes better than a coated jacket but blocks less wind — the classic fleece move is wearing it under a shell.
What to sew with fleece
- Hoodies, zip-ups and joggers
- Blankets — tie blankets need no sewing at all
- Jacket linings, hats, mittens and boot socks
- Pet beds and cozy home projects
Sew with a longer stitch and a ballpoint needle, and mind the loft: a walking foot helps thick layers feed evenly. There is no need to finish edges — fleece does not fray.
Fleece vs. french terry and sherpa
French terry has loops instead of brushed nap — smoother, cooler, better for year-round sweats. Sherpa is a deep-pile fleece cousin that imitates shearling, used as lining and trim. Between them, fleece is the warmth-per-ounce champion.
How to care for fleece
Machine wash cool with liquid detergent, tumble low or hang — heat is the enemy. Never iron fleece: it is polyester, and a hot iron will melt the nap flat and shiny. Skip fabric softener, which coats the fibers and kills the loft over time.
One honest environmental note: like all brushed polyester, fleece sheds microfibers in the wash. A filter bag or a front-loader on a cool, short cycle cuts the shedding meaningfully, and recycled-polyester fleece — increasingly common — reuses bottles instead of new petroleum.
Fleece, measured
Fibers in our fleece
- Polyester90%
- Spandex19%
- Cotton12%
Share of listings containing each fiber — most cloths blend two or more.
Live from 430 measured listings on our shelf. How we measure →
Common questions
What is polar fleece?
The standard double-brushed polyester fleece, named after the original Polartec cloth. If a fabric is just called fleece, this is usually it.
Is fleece waterproof?
No — it is water-resistant at best and dries quickly, but soaks through in real rain. Its trick is staying warm even when damp. For weather, layer it under a shell.
Can you iron fleece?
Avoid it. Polyester nap melts and glazes under a hot iron. If you must remove a crease, hover with steam or tumble the piece briefly with a damp towel.
Why does fleece pill, and can I prevent it?
Friction rolls loose surface fibers into balls. Anti-pill fleece resists this by finish; washing inside-out on gentle and skipping the dryer helps any fleece. A fabric shaver rescues a pilled favorite.
